Review: Sony NEX-FS100 “Super35” LSS AVCHD Camcorder
An interchangeable-lens large-single-sensor NXCAM with a unique design.
By Adam Wilt | February 27, 2012

Sony's follow-on to the consumer-oriented, 1080/60i NEX-VG10 is the more professional NEX-FS100, an E-Mount AVCHD camcorder listing for US$5850, or $6550 with an 18-200mm lens. It shares the same sensor as the considerably more expensive PMW-F3, but nothing else—including its design. The FS100 abandons the problematic "overweight Handycam" form factor in favor of a compact, lightweight box-camera layout that works nicely on a tripod and readily enables cine-style customization and flexible lens choices. It's a bold departure from the status quo and one that, with only a couple of quibbles, pays off handsomely.
The FS100 sits firmly in the NXCAM camp: entry-level professional camcorders capturing HD to Memory Sticks and SDHC cards using AVCHD, an 8-bit, 4:2:0, long-GOP, h.264 codec. Most of its options, settings and camera tweaks will be familiar to shooters using Sony's NXCAM and pro HDV camcorders, those with HVR- and HXR- prefixes. The FS100 adds seven S&Q (Slow & Quick, a.k.a. variable frame rate) speeds from 1-60fps (1-50fps for the "PAL" version), as well as a 28 Mbps 1080p60 recording mode. And, of course, it has E-mount: a shallow-flange-depth lens mount allowing the use of Sony's own lenses or, with the appropriate adapter, almost any stills or cine lens available:
NEX-FS100 with the Sony E-Mount 18-200mm kit lens.

NEX-FS100 with Sony E-Mount 24mm f/1.8 Zeiss.

NEX-FS100 with Sony Alpha 16-35mm f/2.8 Zeiss, via Sony LA-EA1 adapter.

NEX-FS100 with Nikon 17-55 f/2.8, via Rainbowimaging/Fotasy adapter.

NEX-FS100 with Arri/Zeiss 32mm T1.9 Ultra Prime, via Hot Rod Cameras adapter.

NEX-FS100 with RED 18-85mm T2.9 cine zoom, via Hot Rod Cameras adapter.
At the same time, the FS100 gives up dual card slots and relay recording, though it accepts the HXR-FMU128 Flash Memory Unit for 11+ hours of continuous recording. It also lacks SDI, settling for HDMI, analog component, and composite outputs instead.
Design
Imagine a short, stubby brick with a Dixie cup glued to one end, and you've got the body of the FS100. Cut a lens mount into the end of the Dixie cup; add a tilting and swiveling LCD to the top of the brick; liberally festoon the exterior with buttons, switches, connectors, and attachment points; and throw a carrying handle, side grip, microphone, and viewfinder tube into the box, too. The result is the FS100U, and it costs about $5000 (US street price, February 2012). Add in the Sony E-Mount 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 optically stabilized zoom, and you'll spend about $600 more for the FS100UK package. (The "U" suffix indicates the US model; European and Asian models use "E" and "P" suffixes.)
Left Side

Lens controls sit on the rounded "Dixie cup" just aft of the lens mount. These controls only work with compatible lenses, such as native E-mount lenses, Sony Alpha lenses with the appropriate Sony adapter, or Canon lenses with the Conurus/Metabones EF-to-NEX adapter (and depending on the adapter, some functions, like auto-iris, may still not be available).
The IRIS button toggles between auto and manual iris. A thumbwheel lets you adjust the iris in manual mode. IRIS PUSH AUTO gives you a momentary auto-iris setting while in manual mode.
An EXPANDED FOCUS button enlarges the center of the image "about 2x" on the LCD for precise focusing; this button works even while recording and regardless of the lens attached.
An AUTO/MAN slide switch set the focus mode for E-Mount lenses, and a PUSH AUTO button gives you momentary autofocus when manually focusing those same lenses.
(Nowhere, I should note, do you see an ND filter switch: the FS100 does not have internal ND filters. Shooters planning to use cine lenses with the FS100 should plan on a complement of ND filters for the matte box; those using stills lenses may want to consider variable NDs.)
On the "brick" part of the body there are two rows of three assignable buttons, labeled 1-6 in bright white print. Default functions are shown in darker gray print, and the defaults are eminently sensible, so you may not need to change them except in unusual conditions.
Three oblong buttons toggle manual control of gain, white balance, and shutter. Below these are a pushbutton to invoke S&Q (Slow and Quick, or variable-speed) recording, a three-position gain switch, a three-position white-balance switch (A/B/PRESET), a white-balance-setting pushbutton, and a multi-purpose thumbwheel. The thumbwheel sets shutter speeds, frame rates, auto-exposure adjustments, and traverses menus, depending on which button was last pressed.
Above the SONY logo there's a slot for threading a carrying strap. Below the logo, a slide switch toggles the camera's general operation between fully AUTO and selectable MANUAL controls. MENU displays the camera's menus, while PICTURE PROFILE brings up a selection of six picture profiles (custom presets) letting you fine-tune image parameters like gamma, matrix, detail, and knee. A DISPLAY button toggles the data readouts on the LCD (and the output connections, if you've configured the camera to do so), while the STATUS CHECK button cycles through a set of LCD overlays with detailed information on the camera's status and configuration.
At the very bottom there's a push-in BATTery RELEASE button, and at the back, there's a flip-open door for the MS/SDHC card slot, with a card-access LED above it. The LED glows red when the card is being written to or read from: a stoplight letting you know when it's not safe to pop the card out.
Rear

Starting at the top, there's a narrow window for the IR remote control, with a tally-lamp LED embedded in it. A channel-selection switch for the headphones lets you choose Ch. 1, Ch. 2, or a stereo mix; it sits beside the 1/8" / 3.5mm stereo headphone jack, which lurks behind a tethered rubber cap. Also on the same tether is a cap over the REMOTE jack, a LANC port compatible with the full-featured RM-1000BP controller.
Just above the cavernous battery well, the XLR jack for input 2 resides behind a flip-out rubber cap on the left. On the right, a flip-up door reveals a full-sized HDMI port.

On the left, again, we see the card slot door; on the right another door hides RCAs for composite video and stereo audio output, as well as a Sony-proprietary D-shell jack for an analog component video cable, included, which terminates in three RCA plugs.
Right Side

The right side has another carrying-strap lug, and a cable clip for wrangling the cables from the included microphone and the removable handgrip. XLR input 1 has its own rubber cover, as does the USB port below it.
The bulk of the right side is occupied by a pop-out blank. Flip its release lever forwards and pop the blank out, and you can pop in the same HXR-FMU128 memory unit used on the HXR-NX5.

The 128 Mbyte, $670 (street price) memory unit records 11 hours of 24 Mbps AVCHD, enough (perhaps) for even the most long-winded interview.
At the front there's a 1/4" mounting socket and a guide hole, normally used to affix the removable, rotating handgrip, but available for any 1/4" accessory you might choose to mount there. Below that mounting point, in the front of the "brick", there's a START/STOP trigger button.
Top
There's a focus hook on the right, up front at the sensor plane, so that 1st ACs can attach tape measures to get their marks. There's also an accessory shoe with a 1/4" socket; the removable carry handle normally mounts there.

Two more 1/4" sockets lurk in the top of the "brick", just in front of the LCD mount; you can attach cine accessories directly to them, but doing so restricts how far the LCD can open and swivel. Several third-party cheese plates / top mounts use these sockets as anchor points, providing their own accessory mounting sockets farther forward and letting the LCD have a greater range of motion.
The camera's LCD sits amidships on a tilt-and-swivel mount. A thumbwheel to its right adjusts tilt friction, necessary when using the long and heavy viewfinder tube.

The rear half of the top has an inset well for the folded-down LCD; this well is chock-full of controls.
Along the left side are the usual audio controls: LINE/MIC/+48v selectors for both XLRs; input-to-channel routing switches, AUTO/MANual gain switches, and rotary controls for audio level.
Two rows of transport-control and data-display buttons fill the top right. Below that, there's a four-way rocker for menu navigation with a center EXECute pushbutton. Two important buttons sit to its right, VISUAL INDEX and MENU. VISUAL INDEX is the inaptly-named button you push to toggle between "camera" and "playback" modes (this nomenclature is so nonintuitive that I was actually forced, in total desperation, to consult the manual to suss out how to play back a clip!). MENU is a second menu button, handily placed so that if you're involved in playback operations, you needn't detour to the side of the camera to call up the menus.
At the rear edge, alongside the audio pots, there's the master power switch (with a green pushbutton lock to reduce inadvertent actuation), a START/STOP trigger, and a headphone volume rocker switch. This entire row of important-while-shooting controls is accessible even with the LCD folded down.

Bottom
The bottom of the camera has two 1/4" and two 3/8" tripod sockets along the centerline, with an anti-rotation pin locating hole between the two 1/4" mounts, and four more 1/4" sockets to the sides.

The 1/4" sockets are all about 8-9mm deep, but the 3/8" sockets are only about 6mm deep. These were too shallow for two 3/8" tripod plates I tried to use, a Manfrotto and a Vinten; the attachment screws bottomed out in the sockets before the camera was snugged down to the plate. I wound up using a Manfrotto 394 quick-release plate (using one of the 1/4" sockets) or the Hot Rod Cameras FS100 riser plate (using all four non-centerline 1/4" sockets!) to adapt the camera to a 3/8" mount.
Front

On the lower left of the brick (facing the camera), there's the previously-mentioned START/STOP trigger. A red tally-lamp LED sits opposite it on the upper right corner.
The lens release is on the lower left edge of the lens mount, opposite the white alignment dot for E-mount lenses. In the center, of course, is the sensor itself.
Display
The camera's single display is a 3.5" (8.8cm) LCD, mounted atop the camera on a tilt-and-swivel pivot. The LCD can be spun completely around to face forwards; spun 90 degrees in the other direction to face the right side of the camera; flipped up 150 degrees for low-angle viewing, or spun around and folded flat for looking straight down at, like the groundglass on a Hasselblad. It can also be folded flat, face-down, for protection during transportation.
The LCD resolves about 400 TVl/ph horizontally, maybe 500 lines vertically (put another way, details on a resolution chart can be seen to those limits, inclusive of aliasing). It is bright, contrasty, and perfectly usable outdoors, even in direct sunlight.
EXPANDED FOCUS magnifies the image "about 2.0 times" (that's literally what it says in the manual) and, thankfully, it can be used while recording. There's also digital peaking available, in white, red, or yellow (but not green or blue), with three levels of edge sensitivity. Peaking and expanded focus can be used together. EXPANDED FOCUS is a hardwired button and peaking can be assigned to a button (it's button 4 by default), so it's fairly quick to set or check focus using these aids, though it would be even better if tweaking the peaking level didn't require diving into the menus—large sensors are very demanding when it comes to focusing, and the poor operator needs all the help she can get.
The FS100 offers typical Sony data readouts and status displays, with a few extra tweaks for good measure:

Full display: battery charge in percent; zoom setting from 00-99; recording to MS/SDHC media but currently in standby; timecode are showing user bits (synced to GPS time); 66 minutes left on this card at this data rate. Shooting 1080/24p HD in FX mode. GPS reception is good; zebra set at 90%; peaking on (that's the red stuff). Histogram shows a yellow line at the peaking level, a gray line at 100%, and has a black background from 100-109%. Manual focus; Picture Profile 1 in use; aperture is f/11; 0dB gain; 1/48 second shutter, currently being controlled by the side thumbwheel, since it's on a white background. Outdoor white balance with 0 blue/red offset; manual control of audio channel 2; recording linear PCM audio. Level meters clearly indicate where 0dBfs is, and that we haven't hit it! All exposure controls are manually set, since we don't see an "A" in a white arrow beside any of them.
Of special note is the histogram, showing both the superwhite area above 100% (the bit with the darker background at the right side) and the current zebra setting (the yellow line). The zebra-level line remains on the histogram whether zebra is being used or not, though it can be turned off in the menus if you find it distracting. There's only one small inconsistency; while the zebra can be set at any 5% interval from 70% to 100%, or for "100%+", the histogram shows the 100%+ zebra setting in the same place as the 100% zebra, making the line less useful as a current-setting indicator.
While the histogram obeys the DISPLAY button, it can also be toggled independently (subject to the overall DISPLAY mode) with its own button, as can the zebra and peaking displays (by default, assignable buttons 2, 1, and 4 respectively).
(In the image above and the one below, zebra is on; it doesn't show up very clearly due to the subject matter and my still camera's 1/10 second shutter speed, but it's the dark smudges on the bright parts of the branches and the background foliage.)

Partially decluttered: only information necessary for immediate control remains. Manual white balance set to 5600K.
Pressing DISPLAY once removes ancillary information, leaving only data related to exposing and monitoring the current shot.

Fully decluttered, with zebra and peaking also turned off.
Pressing DISPLAY again removes everything other than the record/standby indicator and the current-medium icon, which shows the card (MS or SDHC), the Flash Memory Unit, or both.

Markers turned on: center cross, rule-of-thirds, 80% safe area, and 4x3 aspect ratio.
Markers are handled separately from other displays. By default, they're toggled on and off with assignable button 5. Any of a variety of markers can be enabled or disabled through the menus; all are displayed or removed at the push of a single button.
All marker types are shown enabled above; other choices for aspect ratio are 13x9, 14x9, and 15x9, while the safety zone can be at either 80% or 90%.
There's one oddity associated with markers: if MARKER is on, the HDMI output loses all data displays other than timecode, even though markers and data displays coexist happily on the built-in LCD.
If all that isn't enough, the STATUS CHECK button brings up six pages of detailed information, selectable using the side thumbwheel:
- Audio levels, routing, and input configuration.
- Output signal format and downconversion options (e.g., squeeze / letterbox / center-cut).
- Assignable button settings.
- Camera settings.
- Recording media info.
- Battery info.

Audio setup screen.

Recording media information, with a 16 GB SDHC card and no Flash Memory Unit.

Battery level.
Menus display over picture using a semitransparent gray background, separating the menu from the picture without entirely obscuring it; you can usually see the results of your changes on the image without having to exit the menus.

Setting the preset white balance color temperature in the camera section of the main menu.

Selecting the B/W balance of the edge-enhancement signal, in the manual DETAIL settings of a Picture Preset menu.

Viewing GPS reception information in the main menu's "others" section.
Yes, there's a GPS receiver built in, about which more will be said later. For now, note the large X in the upper left: The FS100's LCD is a touchscreen, and this camera-mode screen, plus most of the playback-mode screens, and navigable by direct touch as well as through the thumbwheel and four-way rocker control.

Thumbnail screen, showing HD clips on the SDHC card.
This screen is entirely navigable by touch, or by using the four-way rocker to select a button or thumbnail and the EXEC key to activate the chosen selection.

Clip playback screen.
Pressing the DATA CODE button on the camera toggles the onscreen info between time/date stamps, timecode data, and GPS positioning info. Pressing the DISPLAY button declutters the screen, removing the overlays.
Handle and Handgrip
The camera's top handle assembly slides into the front accessory shoe and screws down into its socket. The handle itself slides back and forth through a collar on its riser, and is fixed in the desired location with a setscrew. The collar has its own accessory shoe, and the handle has 3/8" threaded accessory sockets on top, and 1/4" threaded sockets on the sides, both fore and aft; the sockets that are exposed depends on the position of the handle.

Top handle moved to the rear, exposing rear mounting points.
The front of the handle holds a crosspiece terminating in a microphone holder. The crosspiece is held in a rubber bushing; flipping up the front of the handle releases pressure on the bushing, so you can slide the crosspiece sideways or rotate the mike holder. The mike holder has a flip clamp to secure the supplied ECM-XM1 microphone.

Top handle moved forwards, exposing forward mounting points; handgrip at 45-degree angle.
The FS100 comes with a detachable, rotatable handgrip with a padded strap. The grip is fairly plain and simply curved; it's not contoured to conform to the palm or fingers of the human hand. It has its own START/STOP trigger, and a thin external cable carrying the trigger signal to the REMOTE port on the back of the camera. The handgrip is affixed using a captive screw which not only attaches the handgrip to the body, but snugs it down against its internal rotation-locking mechanism.

The handgrip's locking screw has is own flip-up handle.
This attachment is a bit fiddly; it needs to be loosened quite a bit before you can rotate the handle, but if you loosen it just a bit more, the grip comes off in your hand. Once you've selected a grip angle, the screw needs to be tightened firmly, its own handle folded down, and its cover popped on before you can slide you hand through the strap to test the angle.
Viewfinder Tube

The camera is supplied with a "viewfinder tube" converting the LCD to an EVF of sorts. It clips onto the LCD with two spring clips, and extends about 7.5" back, with an adjustable eyepiece lens and a rubber eyecup. The tube provides a big, eye-filling image, large enough to see fine detail but not so large that your eye can't take in the whole scene for composition. It's just slightly smaller than the scene presented by the Panasonic DMC-GH2's EVF (one of the best EVFs available); it's equivalent to the view of a 42" monitor from 6 feet away.

The EVF tube can even be used with the LCD in the folded-flat position.
The tube has a flip-up hinge allowing it to be opened, so that the LCD can be viewed from a distance without removing the tube. The chunk of the tube attached to the LCD acts as a hood, shielding the LCD from incident light; while the LCD itself is daylight viewable (and one of the best and brightest I've used in full sunlight), using the tube as a hood is helpful when shooting outdoors.

Flipping the tube up leaves a shielding "hood" around the LCD.
18-200mm Lens
The SEL18200 zoom supplied with the FS100UK package is an 11:1 kit lens designed for Sony's NEX line of compact system still cameras. It has 67mm filter threads and a "petal" style lens hood. The lens body is finished in bright, polished aluminum, with black rubber zoom and focus rings.

The lens ranges from 18mm to 200mm; in 35mm still camera terms that's the equivalent of 28.8mm to 320mm. In 35mm cine camera terms, well, it's an 18-200mm zoom!
The zoom is a directly-coupled mechanical zoom; it's most compact at 18mm, and extends considerably at 200mm, doubling the length of the lens.


It has a LOCK switch to keep it at 18mm; superzooms of this sort, carried lens-down on still cameras, have a tendency to self-extend. The zoom turns in the "wrong" direction, like the zoom on a Nikon lens; it's the reverse of the normal direction for cine and video lenses. It has a short throw of about 90 degrees, and focal lengths are marked on the barrel in white.
The focus control is a free-spinning servo ring, with rate-sensitive gain: turn it slowly and it'll take at least 180 degrees of travel to focus from 0.3m to infinity. Turn it quickly, and that same focal range is traversed in 90 degrees or less. The focus ring turns in the right direction, the same as cine and video lenses. The ring is entirely inoperative in autofocus mode; there's no ability to just grab it and reset focus as many fixed-lens camcorders allow.
There are, for obvious reasons, no focal-distance markings on the lens itself, but there is a distance readout on the LCD when the lens is being manually focused, though only within three seconds of actual focusing activity. The readout is in tenths of meters out to 10m, then in whole meters.
There's no aperture control on the lens; the body-mounted IRIS control is used instead. The lens incorporates Sony's OSS (Optical SteadyShot), similarly controlled using the camera's menus. This lens offers both normal and "active" SteadyShot; the latter has a more tranquilizing effect on the image, more like the strong optical stabilization in many of Canon's camcorders.
Next: Features and Functions...
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Josh Dahlberg: | February, 29, 2012
Thank you Adam - a comprehensive, balanced and insightful review as always. I’ve been in the industry ten years now and right from the start have lapped up your camera profiles - they’re unmatched anywhere on the web. The detail and range of info (from handling to chart interpretations) is just brilliant. This one is particularly useful for me in determining whether the FS100 is “good enough” or if I should hold out for a C300. Much appreciated.
Josh
ghosteater: | February, 29, 2012
Awesome! Very informative and appreciated. Thanks
tunny: | March, 11, 2012
A very well written and thorough review. I do have to comment on one thing though. You say: “Its (the AF100s) sensor is about 75% the size of the FS100’s, so it has roughly comparable depth of field ...”
That may be true of the total sensor areas, but it’s neglecting that the four-thirds sensor is 4:3. Used in the AF100 it gets windowed to 16:9, which reduces the effective area by 25%, so that when you compare ACTIVE areas between the two cameras the AF100 is approximately 50% that of the FS100.
For depth of field purposes, the FS100 can be considered to have a full stop advantage over the AF100.
Don Downie: | March, 11, 2012
Thanks for the great article, Adam.
One quick question:
You wrote that “The FS100’s timecode generator can be jam-synced over LANC for multicamera shoots.”
I own an FS100, and am hoping to try syncing with another one on a shoot soon. I can’t find any documentation of this feature, though. Do you mean that I can just plug a 2.5mm male to male stereo cable between the LANC ports on two FS100s, and one of them will slave timecode? Or do I need to do this via a LANC controller of some kind that feeds both cameras?
Thanks again,
DonDownie
tunny: | March, 11, 2012
I agree - a very good article.
One point of clarification is regarding the relative sensor sizes between the AF100 and the FS100.
It may be true that for OVERALL area the FS100 is only 75% than the AF100, but because the ffour-thirds sensor is 4:3, 25% of that is lost in the AF100 in 16:9 mode.
Hence I believe the FS100 is about twice the size of the AF100 when you consider ACTIVE area - a full stop difference.
tunny: | March, 11, 2012
Correction, and my apologies - the above should have read that for overall area, the AF100 is 75% that of the FS100. But for active area, it’s only about 50% of the FS100, due to the AF100 only using a 16:9 window of the 4:3 chip.
Adam Wilt: | March, 13, 2012
Regarding sensor size and depth of field: the FS100’s active area is 23.6x13.3mm, the AF100’s is 17.8x10.0mm. The AF100’s sensor is indeed 75% the linear size of the FS100’s, and 56% of the area. Depth of field scales with linear dimension, not area; there is about a one-stop difference between ‘em: for the same angle of view, you’ll need around f/2.8 on the AF100 to match the depth of f/4 on the FS100.
I consider this to be “roughly comparable” when compared to the difference between the FS100 and a 2/3” or smaller sensor, where you’ll need three stops wider or more on the small-sensor cam to match the depth of f/4 on the FS100. Sorry I didn’t spell that out.
As to area scaling, yes, the AF100’s 56% active area compared to the FS100 translates, all else being equal, to a one-stop sensitivity advantage for the FS100.
All else is far from equal, though; the AF100 appears to line-skip (and pixel-skip within a line) to generate an HD image from its 12 Mpixel sensor, so it (again apparently) loses more active area to that skipping. Further, Panasonic’s sensor aren’t directly comparable to Sony’s sensors in terms of noise and sensitivity even when they have equal photosite counts and active areas. Most critically, the signal processing differs markedly between the two cameras: the AF100 appears to be using substantial 3D noise reduction, such that its apparent noise level doesn’t change at all with gain boost—only its character changes.
Increasingly as we move into the era of cheap-as-chips (grin) DSPs, what comes out of the camera bears less and less resemblance to the “pure and unprocessed” signal emanating from the sensor… at which point it’s worth comparing cameras more with reference to the images they make and less with reference to the fundamentals of geometry and basic physics. It’s getting to the point where I’m about ready to answer any question about comparing sensors from different manufacturers in different cameras with “mu”, the answer to the koan, “does a dog have Buddha-nature?”!
tunny: | March, 14, 2012
Thanks for the clarification - I had understood you meant area when referring to 75%. I think we’re both in agreement that the FS100 sensor is about 100% larger than the AF100 in AREA terms, and that makes about a stop difference for relative depth of field comparisons.
I do think that it’s quite a significant difference though. Yes, they both offer a significant difference in depth of field compared to a 2/3” sensor, but it’s 2 stops for the AF100, 3 stops for the FS100.
Yes, if all else was equal it should also mean a stop more sensitivity for the FS100 - but as you say, the FS100 is far better than just one stop in practice. The only explanation I’ve heard that fully explains the observations is that the AF100 is fundamentally reading the sensor in a similar way to the C300 (direct read of R,G,B from 2x2 Bayer blocks) *BUT* with the big difference that it only reads every other block horizontally and vertically, so only one block in four, or only four photosites out of every sisteen.
That would be expected to give a final output resolution of a quarter the native chip dimensions, symmetry for horizontal and vertical characteristics, and quite high luminance aliasing but little or no chroma aliasing. All exactly as measured. (For a 16:9 12 megapixel sensor, I’d expect dimensions of around 4800x2700, so a predicted output resolution before aliasing of a quarter that - 1200x675 (675lpph). That correlates well with the RB-SRW chart you show for the AF100, especially looking at the res trumpet with mainly horizontal lines.)
When the AF100 was developed it’s competition was against DSLRs, and it’s readout system is undoubtedly better than any DSLR of the time for video, even allowing for only one in four photosite being actively used. The real lesson seems to be there is a big gulf between purpose designing a chip for video, and “making do” with what is effectively a still camera sensor.
Don Downie: | March, 14, 2012
Adam, any clarification on how to jam sync over LANC? I would love to know the method for this, if it is in fact possible. Thanks!
Adam Wilt: | March, 14, 2012
tunny: I won’t argue whether a 1-stop DoF difference is significant. My only point was that a 3-stop difference is about 3x as significant as a 1-stop difference!
Interesting theory on the AF100 readout. It does seem to predict the observed results, on that camera as well as on the GH1 and GH2. Have you any pointers to that explanation?
“The real lesson seems to be there is a big gulf between purpose designing a chip for video, and ‘making do’ with what is effectively a still camera sensor.” +1!
Don Downie: A Sony chap told me, “It is possible to synchronize Rec START/PAUSE and Time Code Preset via the LANC remote port”, which is what I based my statement on.
I’m trying to get confirmation of this, but so far all I’ve got back through official channels is. “You can definitely put the cameras side by side and using the IR controller reset all to zero and start the TC generator. TC generator must be previously set to free run.” This is the common-start technique long available with any IR-controlled camera, and one I’ve employed profitably on multicam shoots in the past. It’s typically good for getting TC synced to within a couple of frames.
If I hear anything more definitive soon, I’ll update these comments; in the absence of confirmation I’ll edit the article to remove that statement. Stay tuned…
Oh, BTW, Sony has announced that the firmware upgrade for the FS100 should be available on 22 March. (A tip of the hat to sonyalpharumors.com for the news!)
Don Downie: | March, 14, 2012
Thanks, Adam. Hope I didn’t come off as cheeky—I’d be really excited to have a hard-wired way to sync these.
If I get a chance, I’ll try to test syncing via LANC port and a simple cable.
I’ve had mixed results in the past using IR remote to sync cameras, but that was on Panasonic HVX200s, which had some timecode peculiarities (in 24pN).
Please keep us posted if you hear more from Sony. I’ve got my breath held for that firmware upgrade.
tunny: | March, 14, 2012
“Interesting theory on the AF100 readout. It does seem to predict the observed results, on that camera as well as on the GH1 and GH2. Have you any pointers to that explanation?”
It was something I read quite a while ago, but I think was speculative rather than from an official source. I seem to remember it giving other pointers as evidence as well as sensitivity, aliasing and resolution - power consumption and simplicity of implementation amongst them - and it explains why the resolution charts are symmetrical. (Unlike DSLRs with simple line skipping.)
At the time, the idea of directly reading out 2x2 blocks to derive video wasn’t generally known about (AFAIK). It was only when the C300 came out with a description of the same fundamental technique (albeit with a sensor which could use the technique to it’s full with no skipping, and give full 1080 resolution with no up or down conversion!) that I remembered what had previously been suggested as an explanation for the AF100. The C300 proved the 2x2 block readout theory was valid.
Adam Wilt: | March, 14, 2012
Actually, 2x2 direct readout has been around at least since 2000 when I wrote about color in CCD cameras, at least in interlaced dual-row readout of CMY+G sensors (see the spec sheets at http://www.sony.net/Products/SC-HP/pro/image_senser/color_video.html for current-product implementation; the spec sheet URL I originally referenced having long since gone missing).
In ye olde days, the dual-row readout trick worked well without requiring twice the output resolution in the sensor, though if the sensor has less than 2x the horizontal resolution, H res would of course suffer (for analog color-under camera or security cameras, that wasn’t a big deal anyway!). For progressive scan with full resolution, one does need a full 2x in both H and V, like the C300 uses.
tunny: | March, 19, 2012
Adam - I’ve been having a closer look at the charts you shot and what most interests me is the diagonal on the FS100. The zone plate shows strong alias circles (with a null at around 960lpph) but they seem to be prominent on the DIAGONALS. This is what I would expect with the photosite rows at 45deg to to horizontal/vertical. It looks very like a normal zone plate rotated through 45deg.
For the last year, I’ve believed the F3 and the FS100 to share the same sensor - but I’m now having my doubts. I’m sure the F3 sensor is conventional Bayer and about 3.3 megapixel, but I now suspect the FS100 may be different. This may explain why Sony initially gave details for the F3 but now do not soecify any details for the F3 or FS100.
It’s a big leap - but I wonder if we may be seeing on the FS100 the Q67 sensor that was talked about a year or more ago….....? The low power consumption of the FS100 seems to point to a more simplified readout system than the F3, and in that case the lack of coloured aliasing would indicate a much higher photosite count than 3.36 megapixel.
Adam Wilt: | March, 19, 2012
The Sony folks keep insisting it’s the same sensor in both the FS100 and the F3. The specifications simply state:
Image device
“Exmor” Super35 CMOS sensor 23.6 mm
tunny: | March, 19, 2012
I confess I’m puzzled - I’ve just looked up the manual online and you’re quite right regarding what Sony state there.
As example to show why I’m confused, I’m theorizing a situation (and assuming the 2456x1372 Bayer) where it is illuminated by an ideal pattern of 1372 horizontal lines, half white, half black. Let’s further assume the white lines fall on the Bayer rows RGRGRG etc. That means that NO B photosites will receive illumination, so no matter how the chip is READ, there can’t be ANY blue in the output? Shift the pattern down a line and the illuminated rows will all be BGBGBGB etc, so in this case no chance of any red in the output.
Hence I’d expect the coloured aliasing to be inherent to the sensor geometry rather than readout method? I can’t see any mechanism that could avoid coloured aliasing around the 1372 lpph figure on a zone plate.
I looked at the NX5 zone plate you mention and couldn’t help think that the general form of it did look similar to the FS100 in terms of the predominant alias circles being on the diagonal - not on the axes. (Though in the case of the NX5 the null is closer in to the centre than for the FS100.)
Adam Wilt: | March, 19, 2012
Consider also the use of optical low-pass filtering and how it works to spread light rays across multiple photosites. Without an OLPF it is theoretically possible to generate the sort of pathology you describe, but in practice it’s exceedingly rare to actually get that perfectly awful situation. With an OLPF, it’s even rarer.
Here’s an interesting demosaicing comparison site: http://thedailynathan.com/demosaic/ Have a shufty ‘round the web for other such demos and comparisons, too. Different demosaicing processes, given real-world images, can do surprisingly different things with fine details.
tunny: | March, 20, 2012
Regarding the pathology I described, then it is showing up extremely well on the F3 chart - “blotchy” patches of yellow and cyan on vertical and horizontal lines on the chart from around 1150-1600 lpph (centred on the 1372). That’s exactly what I’d expect, it may be rare in “real life”, but there will be points on such a chart where it would be expected.
I confess I hadn’t really previously considered the OLPF. But looking at the FS100 chart again with that in mind, then I’m struck by the aliasing in the 45deg diagonal segment. The converging response is as expected up to about 1000 lpph, but then the lines start to diverge (aliasing) and this pattern is clear right through to beyond 1750 lpph, when a hint of colouring starts to show. If the OLPF was having much effect in suppressing the pathology I describe around 1372 lpph, then why such a level of luminance aliasing?
I’m inclined to conclude the OLPF is not having too much effect at this spatial frequency. And so we come back to the previous point - if no B photosites are giving an output, how can any algorithm reconstruct to a monochrome image? (And one which represents luminance only aliasing at that!?
)
mrak1979: | April, 03, 2012
Great review, but I’ve heard this camera suffers from really low highlight protection and that highlights blowout way too quickly. What are people’s thoughts?
thx
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Adam Wilt here, jumping in via the comment-editing interface, since our CMS is refusing to let me post any comments through the normal channels (!) (sigh):
Its highlight protection, a.k.a. its knee function, is in my experience no better or worse than any other sub-$20K Rec.709 camcorder or camera with a linear knee.
The S-curved knee on the new Panasonics, like the HPX250, AC160, and AC130 does a slightly more natural job of rolling off the highlights than a linear knee does, but for a substantial improvement (IMHO) in highlight quality, you’ll need something with a “cinegamma” or “hypergamma”, like the EX3, EX1R, or other XDCAM EX cameras have.
Fortunately, the just-announced NEX-FS700 has cinegammas—the first time they’ve migrated down-market to the NXCAM line.
If that won’t do it for you, well, you can always got get an Arri Alexa…
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tunny: | April, 11, 2012
I hadn’t really expected to add anything to my last comments - but in the last three weeks the FS700 has arrived, together with a sensor with far higher pixel count than 3.3megapixels. In light of my previous thoughts about the FS100, I would be very interested to see a chart from it shot in a comparable way to those you have done for the FS100.
Could there just be a chance that the FS100 and 700 will have certain very similar “fingerprints”.....?
It would explain a lot…..
Mike N: | April, 24, 2012
Hello Adam,
Found your review of the camera a couple of days ago which is very helpful and extensive, thank you. Hope you still read this and can answer me some questions.
You said that the Cine gammas on this camera depress the midtones a bit. So if for example in the 709 curve the input signal is 40 and it comes out 60 on screen then for the Cinematone the 40 goes down to maybe 50 ? Am I getting this right ? Should I expose faces as I would with 709 gamma or compensate for the lower midtone and crank the exposure up or add more light to bring the face back up, or should I do this through grading.
Secondly, compression in the highlights results in more information being added in the image as the cost of awkardly looking colors and posterization if we exagerate the knee. What about the shadows ? To get more detail from them shouldn’t I expand them (dialing in a posivive level +) rather than compress them ?
thanks,
Mike
Adam Wilt: | April, 25, 2012
Mike N: I’m not sure why an input signal at 40 would come out at 60, but in general, for the same exposure setting, the Cinematone gammas will have the same scene midtone value (say, a gray card) reproduce at a lower level onscreen than it would in 709 gamma.
Where you set exposure for faces, and which gamma you choose, isn’t something allowing a simple one-line answer. The different gammas render scenes differently, and you use them as a tool to affect how you choose to have the scene rendered, along with color balance, knee, etc.
Knee compression doesn’t really “add more” to the image, but it squeezes more highlight values into the same tonal scale by reducing the separation between those highlight tones. while it captures more scene brightness into the highlights, and may include details that would otherwise be blown out, it actually reduces the discrimination between details (as defined by variations in brightness) in those highlights. Put another way, you may capture more brightness levels in the highlights, but you reduce contrast between them in doing so.
As to shadow detail, the black gamma setting isn’t really the inverse of the knee; it can’t “capture more black” the way the knee can “capture more white”. Rather, it varies the contrast in the existing shadow detail (at the expense of some midtone contrast; TANSTAAFL!). Yes, if I remember correctly, you’d increase the black gamma number to expand the shadow detail and make more things visible therein that might otherwise all be smushed together, tonally.
Mike N: | April, 25, 2012
Thank you Adam.
As for the input output signal it was my understanding that this is what gamma curves do actually. They are not an actual straight line in the same way our eyes see 18% gray as a halfway between black and white, hence a 50 output for a 18 input. I think these gammas work the same especially the Cinegammas and more so the Log curves found in the high end cameras, they have a steep curve in the blacks and midtones and after that they are very shallow at the end for the highlight. I might be wrong obviously but this is what i’ve come to understand from all the graphs and charts of gammas.
thanks.
Adam Wilt: | April, 25, 2012
Mike N: Ah, now I see what you’re saying. Yes, an 18% gray card normally comes out, in a Rec.709 gamma, at around 42% brightness (the display gamma is normally a rough inverse of the capture gamma, so that 42% brightness value gets displayed at around 18%, which is why the whole reproduction chain works!).
If you look at the grabs on page 2, you’ll see how the tonal values change with different gamma settings. The Cinematones depress midtones about 10 units compared to normal gammas, with Cinematone 1 S-curving shadows a bit, and Cinematone 2 S-curving both shadows and highlights.
Mike N: | April, 25, 2012
Thanks for taking the time and explaining this. I’ve had these questions in my head for quite some time now and they badly needed clarification.
So…to put this to rest:
The camera, the sensor actually captures data linearly, so for a 18 gray is sees a true 18 gray. After this a gamma is applied which raises this to about 42% brightness. Finally we view this on the camera display or on a monitor which has an inverse gamma (1/2.2 or something like that for “normal” LCDs right ? ) which brings back the 42% to 18% BUT because our eyes are nonlinear we actually see that as about 50 % bright ?
This of course for a 709 gamma which is very closely designed for tv and broadcast, the Cinegammas are darker, like you said with about 10 units, so 42% becomes something like 32%.
Finally on this camera the Cinematone 2 seems to capture the most details out of the shadows and highlights although i’ve seen that applying a more aggressive knee to he 709 gamma (about 80 with the slope set to minus) brings back lots of highlight detail.
thanks again.
Adam Wilt: | April, 26, 2012
For the most part, that’s how it works. More at http://poynton.com/notes/colour_and_gamma/GammaFAQ.html and i,f that doesn’t slake your thirst, Poynton’s book is worth reading through.
Mike N: | April, 26, 2012
This is great. Thank you. I’ll surely read it through.
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