Art Adams

A native of Northern California, Art Adams spent ten years in LA--first at film school (Loyola Marymount) and then working in the film industry. He started out as a camera assistant on low budget features and worked his way into spots, music videos, features, sitcoms and episodic television shows. He transitioned from assistant to operator to DP by the time he returned to the San Francisco Bay Area in 1993.

Currently Art focuses his energies on shooting spots and high end corporate productions, as well as special venue and blue/green screen projects. He likes jobs that make his brain hurt with ingenuity and cleverness. He has been published in HD Video Pro, American Cinematographer, Camera Operator Magazine and Film/Tape World.


Sunday, March 30, 2008

RED results coming soon--stay tuned!

Hi all- I apologize, but I’ve been swamped with work of one sort or another, and when I tried to sit down and start sorting through the latest RED test footage today I couldn’t finish it. I took a nap instead. I must be getting old!

I’ve got three days of shooting this week, and hopefully I’ll be able to pull the footage together and post it by the end of the week. If I were to speculate wildly about the results of the latest round of RED testing, I’d say the following:

The RED definitely has an infrared problem, as previously seen on Reduser.net. We put 7 stops of ND on the lens and saw very severe magenta color shifts on black cloth due to IR contamination. Apparently if the ratio of visible light to infrared becomes too low the RED sees the IR quite easily. I understand that at least one filter manufacturer is currently working on the problem.

We tested build 15, which seems very different to build 14. On build 14 we saw severe problems with red clipping under tungsten light that turned highlights cyan and required highlight recovery work in REDCine and REDAlert to bring back highlight detail. On build 15 it seems that a lot has been done internally to eliminate this problem: the camera seems to hold highlights vastly better under tungsten light, and highlight recovery actually seems to make things slightly worse. There’s obviously something different going on in the camera with this build.

I think there’s some additional processing going on in there, particularly with the red channel. It’s interesting to note that build 14 saw the red channel being the quietest, with green second and blue the noisiest. Now green is the quietest (although still fairly noisy), with red being noisier and blue about the same. Something seems to have happened to the red gain. Also, preliminary histogram examination shows red rolling off around clip instead of hard clipping, which is interesting.

It’s a completely different camera now. I hope to post some build 14 and 15 comparisons and more data later in the week. Stay tuned.

Thanks, as always, to camera guru Adam Wilt for his help and photos. Also thanks to DP Alan Hereford, DP-in-training Ted Allen, and video engineer/co-owner Jay Farrington of Chater Camera (chatercamera.com).

I’ve also got a new showreel coming together, so I suspect I’ll have a lot to say about that process at some point.


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Monday, March 24, 2008

RED: Not a vampire camera at all. It loves daylight!

I’ve now had independent confirmation from a couple of people who watched my RED build 14 exposure tests and have had great luck treating their RED as a daylight film stock. Apparently clipped highlights are significantly less of a problem and noise in the shadows drops way down. It’s a much smoother look.

If you haven’t had a chance to test your RED before shooting to see how well you can recover clipped highlights, it might be a good idea to go HMI or daylight if at all possible. I’m hoping to test recovering clipped highlights and blue filtration by the end of the week, so stay tuned.

Meanwhile, look back a couple of posts in this blog if you need to learn how to recover clipped highlights in Red Alert, and remember that the same control in Red Cine, called “highlight,” does work--but you need to “jiggle” or double-click another control before the new value takes effect. That is slated to be corrected in the next build.


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Training • (1) Comments • Most recent comments by: Graeme Nattress, • Permalink



Saturday, March 22, 2008

Power Windows: Coloring Correction with Training Wheels

If I’m not tweaking color I can’t screw up as badly

Like a lot of people with Final Cut Pro or After Effects, I’m trying to become a crack colorist in the privacy of my own home. It’s unlikely to happen anytime soon as I just don’t have the training or the time to take on a second full time career. But--that doesn’t mean I can’t do a little bit of damage to my own footage when I want to experiment. Or when I’m too cheap to hire someone else to do it.

There’s been much discussion on the Cinematography Mailing List about rookie colorists and why it’s a bad idea to try to do these things yourself on a wing and a prayer, but I figure the more I work on my footage the more I’ll learn about giving others the kinds of images that they can improve on my behalf in the future. I’ve done the same thing editing my own footage, and I’ve learned a hell of a lot not just about shooting for editors but also how to fix the kinds of mistakes that just happen on sets when we’re working against time and budget.

I don’t have a color critical monitor, and as much as I’ve tried to calibrate my Apple Cinema Displays to look something like what I might find on a badly tuned TV set in a third world nation, I can’t quite get close enough to feel comfortable. If I’m working with a piece of footage that’s been horribly screwed up in post by someone else (I once shot some jeans spots where the client decided the whole thing should have a blue cast because, well, jeans are blue, and isn’t that a good enough reason?) I can bring it back to normal, but creating rich sophisticated looks on a questionably-calibrated computer LCD is a little frustrating.

The one thing I can’t screw up too much is luminance, and the single most beneficial thing I can do to my 8-bit HD footage is to pop in a Power Window and reduce bright unclipped areas that I couldn’t control during shooting. This is super simple in a telecine suite on someone else’s dime, but where I live and work HD footage is made on the set and never touched again. That’s fine, we do good work anyway, but it’s nice to have the opportunity to take footage to the next level. And since I’m only affecting brightness, which I can judge reasonably well on a computer screen and via waveform, I’ve got a lot more confidence controlling luminance alone than if I decided to cool the shadows and warm the highlights with any degree of finesse.

I’ve got Digital Film Tools 55mm, Apple’s Color, and Magic Bullet’s Colorista, and all can do vignettes (frequently called Power Windows because that’s they’re designated on a high-end Da Vinci color corrector). So far, for ease of use, Colorista wins hands down. It’s incredibly simple to quickly create a Power Window.

In this shot, from a Microsoft Zune spot shot on a Varicam (with a Pro35, Zeiss Super Speeds, and while riding a Steadicam operated by Tim Bellen) I’ve always been bugged by not being able to cut the laptop brightness down a bit. We were shooting in a cafe in Santa Cruz, and our morning ritual saw the crew standing around on top of a train trestle for two hours waiting to shoot the first shot while the day’s creative was re-written. As a result we ended up in this cafe shooting day/interiors after the sun went down. It ended up being a 17 hour day, and at some point our mission became doing the best we could before the poor Steadicam operator went numb from the waist down. (Every single shot for two days was a Steadicam shot. Every. Single. Shot.)

In this case the ambient light was established by erecting a couple of 12x12 gryffs in front of the windows on one side of the restaurant and bouncing PARs off them to recreate the daylight look. After that it became fairly simple to wheel around some Kino Flo Image 80’s to quickly shape whatever area we were shooting in. In this case we propped an Image 80, with 216 on it, on a table in front of our actress and started rolling. She looked great; the laptop looked hot but it wasn’t horrible, and my hope was that the viewer would be more interested in her than the laptop.

These stills are a little deceptive because the laptop looks better here than it does on DVCProHD, but take my word for it--the brightness competes a bit with the actress’s face. Not a lot, but enough that I wanted to try to focus a little more attention on her.

Colorista’s controls are very simple: you pick a vignette shape (ellipse or rectangle), place a top point and bottom point, set a width using a slider, feather, and done. You can see the vignette as a shape alone or as a red mask on top of your footage. Tracking is done in the usual way in Final Cut Pro, by plotting key frames on a timeline. (I have After Effects but haven’t learned it yet. Who has time???)

I’m going to go through all of this Zune footage and look for opportunities to focus attention by darkening corners and edges. I used to have this done to film all the time but I’ve yet to get any of my HD footage in front of a professional colorist. I’ve got great DIT’s who paint my cameras phenomenally well, but being able to dodge-and-burn HD images after the fact is a wonderful, wonderful thing. It will only ever end up being seen on my reel… but that’s where it counts.

(I’m in the process of reading “The Art and Technique of Digital Color Correction,” by Steve Hullfish. It’s a great primer on the art and craft of coloring. Highly recommended.)


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Visual Effects • (1) Comments • Most recent comments by: Laptoper, • Permalink



Tuesday, March 18, 2008

RED Highlight Clipping: Solved?

New from RED: how to correct those bothersome clipped highlights I’ve been freaking out about for the last few days. Currently the procedure only seems to work in RED Alert using the DRX slider. This process is intended to work within REDCine using the “highlight” function but at the moment neither Adam Wilt nor I can get it to work (Intel Mac, build 90). That’s being looked into right now.

DRX works to reconstruct highlights in a clipped channel using information from the other channels. It then blends the reconstructed pixels and the original pixels together to create the most natural-looking effect.

When shooting, try not to clip more than one color channel at a time if you can avoid it. One channel isn’t hard to reconstruct. Two make it more difficult. It’s pointed out to me that two channels will rarely clip at the same time, so for part of the image only one channel will be repaired, and in other parts of the image two will be repaired (although the quality may suffer when two channels are clipped).

In RED Alert, open the R3D of the shot in question and look at the histogram. If you’ve got at least one channel that isn’t clipping, you’re in reasonable shape. If you have two channels that aren’t clipping, even better.

Using the exposure slider, back the exposure down until the curves are just touching the right side of the histogram. Then dial in the DRX slider until things look right. Make sure the matrix is turned ON with your desired white balance in place before using DRX, otherwise the algorithm won’t know what white balance you want and won’t know how to reconstruct the channel(s).

That’s it. It’s that easy. The hard part will be keeping an eye on the camera histogram when shooting to protect the quality of the highlights. It’s a strange new world, this land of RAW, and waveform and vectorscopes aren’t the only tools with which we need be familiar. The histogram is our new best friend, as that will be what tells us the quality of the data we are capturing.

A huge “thank you” to Graeme Nattress of RED for his help in solving this issue. I hope we’ll be able to bring you more info on this subject, and others, soon.


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Monday, March 17, 2008

RED ONE Build 14 Latitude Tests

Wherein I investigate whether the RED ONE’s 5000k chip loses effective latitude in tungsten-lit environments

My goal was to see if RED’s 5000k chip is limited in exposure latitude under tungsten lighting conditions due to a tendency for the red channel to clip early. This seems to be the case, but I’m told there’s a post fix for this problem that I hope to learn about in the near future.

Here’s what I did:

-Shot a Kodak 18% gray card, with some texture to it, at different exposures to see where the camera clipped and to see where significant underexposure noise occurred.

-Shot two tests, one under tungsten light and one under tungsten + full CTB, to see how the camera did under both kinds of light.

-Originally set exposure by setting gray at 50 units using the camera’s Rec 709 output, which turned out to be a stop slower than REDLog would have me believe. Zone 4 on Rec 709 turned out to be Zone 5 in REDLog. (The ASA appears to be a true 320.)

-Took the darkest three tones for each lighting situation and boosted them to 18% gray value to better see noise; also isolated each color channel to see where the noise was coming from.

-Included histograms for each clip from Red Alert.

-Captured in RedCode28, 4K 2:1, 23.98 fps and 1/48 shutter.

I wasn’t able to check underexposure latitude as far down as I wanted because of the ambient light in the test location.

The process was: open .R3D in Red Alert and export clip; then reset white balance to 5600k and capture the histogram to see what the daylight-balanced chip was doing in each situation. The clip was scaled and output as a ProRes HQ Quicktime, 1280x720, and assembled on a ProRes HQ timeline in Final Cut Pro 2. It was then output via Compressor using H.264 VBR encoding at 1k/sec. bit rate, where I tried to keep the file size down without letting the noise get lost or exaggerated by the compression process.

Enjoy!


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Monday, March 17, 2008

It’s All Up to Me Now

I never knew how much processing cameras did for me, until I used a camera that didn’t do any.

My quest for digital truth took me to a little known corner of the world, a private spot where there are three mountains known as The Gains. The middle one, Green Gain, is considered the most stable, and that was where I sought the Guru of all Digital Media.

After a long hike through windy prairies and along steep cliffs I found myself at his abode. At the annointed hour I let myself in and took a seat on the floor opposite the guru’s prayer matte. And then I waited.

An hour later, after discovering that Zen Monthly was simply a magazine designed to help you fill the moments of your life (2,505,600 ideas just for February alone), and realizing that the centerfold model of New Solipsist was actually the editor, I was startled by a voice.

“Sorry I’m late. Take my advice, never buy a British car.”

I half jumped out of my skin. “Where did you come from?”

The Guru pointed to his green robes. “They key very nicely, even in reality. Sorry to sneak up on you like that.” He took his seat across from me. “Tell me, son, what brings you to my retreat.”

I steeled myself, thinking of all the trouble and turmoil that brought me to this point. “It’s very simple,” I said. “I’ve been trying to wrap my mind around this whole ‘RED’ thing and it’s really perplexing. For a long time we’ve all been looking forward to an affordable, raw 4k camera for the masses, and now that we have it… I don’t think we know what to do with it. For myself, I’m learning that there’s an incredible amount that goes into making a digital camera work--and if I’m to make the RED work for me I have to learn how to do in post what other cameras have been doing for me automatically all along.”

The Great Teacher looked sedate, eyes closed, a faint smile on his lips. After a few moments he started. “Ah, sorry about that. Miles away. I do love the Bahamas.”

He leaned closer to me, as if trying to determine whether I could handle the Great Truth he was about to unleash upon me. “Tell me more about these troubles you so desperately wished for.”

“Well, I thought I wanted a camera without any processing built-in,” I whined. “But now I’m learning about all the things that cameras do for me every day that I took for granted. For example, color clipping. I’ve learned that the RED creates these interesting cyan highlights if you shoot under tungsten light, with the RED’s daylight-balanced chip, if you clip the red channel--something that’s easier to do under tungsten light because of the large red component of the spectrum. Apparently it’s not terribly hard to fix and I’m talking with RED about how to accomplish that, after which I hope to publish the solution as a tip on my blog (see ‘Self-Promotion 101,’ New Solipsist, February 2008). But I never knew that this was a common problem solved by the knee circuits in all the other cameras that I use. I know I wished for a raw camera, but now I’m discovering that someone has to take care of all these problems later, and supposedly they can do it better than it can be done in camera--but I’m not sure who that’s going to be. No one knows who will be converting the footage into dailies: is that the rental house that furnished the camera, a post house, an editor who fancies himself a colorist? Will someone do a final color correction pass or will dailies be it? There are so many questions.”

“Ah, grasshopper.” The Guru smiled, seeing a grasshopper nearby. “Now you know why you must be careful what you wish for. Yes, having a camera that dumps a pile of steaming raw data onto your plate, for you to do with what you will, seems attractive at first. THEN you find out how much has been done for you all along without your ever knowing it was happening, and suddenly there’s a new learning curve: it’s not about delivering a pretty picture anymore, it’s delivering footage and making sure someone else turns it into the pretty picture you intended it to be.

“It’s very similar to the problems my old friend, the Film Guru, used to hear all the time. His followers eventually figured it all out, and so will you. I see him less and less these days. I think he’s getting ready to retire. I guess all his silver reclamation schemes paid off.”

The Guru of All Digital Media stood, adjusted his robes, and smiled. “Let me know how things go with RED. I like them, after a fashion. It’ll be interesting to see what evolves.

“Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m late for a meeting with Sony. I’m trying to talk them out of another prism camera and I’m already overdue. You know, for a guy who’s always supposed to ‘be here now’, I’m always late!”

He slowly started to fade away, his green robe disappearing against the background of reality. “Be careful what you wish for, young man,” he said. “Take my advice and skip the Monkey’s Paw concession on your way out.”

And he was gone.


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Production • (3) Comments • Most recent comments by: art gallery, mmorpg, Joofa, • Permalink



Sunday, March 16, 2008

RED vs. Ace Hardware

RED doesn’t like fluorescents, and after this clip you won’t either.

I was shooting some exposure tests with a RED and I turned my tungsten reference light off to look at something on the camera. I noticed green roll bars crawling up the monitor, and quickly figured out that it was the rolling shutter interacting with the overhead cool white Ace Hardware fluorescents in the shop. The problem was completely eliminated by going to 1/40th/sec. on the camera shutter at 23.98 fps.

This was build 14. I understand build 15 will introduce shutter angle control in degrees, so it’s probably good to know that the equivalent to 1/40th is 217 degrees.

1/48th at 24 fps is right on the edge of the 60hz flicker-free window, so I habitually shoot with other cameras at 1/40th or 217 degrees just to avoid flicker issues with house power or odd discharge lights in the background. It looks to me like this practice might be mandatory with this camera. Any additional motion blur is minimal.

Notice how green the image is. Most other cameras (three chip CCD’s) don’t see the green spike in the average uncorrected hardware store fluorescent fixture. This camera sees it almost as strongly as film would. Very interesting.


Cameras • (3) Comments • Most recent comments by: Joofa, Art Adams, Adam Wilt, • Permalink



Saturday, March 15, 2008

“Why CMOS over CCD?” I ask my toaster for answers.

Rolling shutters and noise: why do we tolerate CMOS sensors?

The other day I found Harry, the Civil Toaster ("civil" not as in kind, but because he was in the civil service) in the driveway tossing corn chips.

“Harry… dare I ask what you’re doing?”

“It’s very simple, white bread,” he said. (Are toasters naturally rude, or is it something they develop over time?) “I read that CMOS chips have a rolling shudder, so I’m trying to find one by rolling chips and seeing if I can induce a seizure. If a chip starts shuddering, I’m halfway toward making my own camera!”

“Harry, you’re smart for a toaster. Which means if you heat up when you’re plugged in you’re already at the median for toaster intelligence, so I’m not saying much.

“What I think you’re talking about is that CMOS chips have a rolling shutter. CCD chips generally grab data in one fell swoop, after which the data is read out of the chip, the chip is blanked, and it’s then ready for another exposure.

“CMOS chips expose one horizontal line at a time, from the top of the frame to the bottom, and while they do it very quickly it’s not unusual to see artifacts from this type of scanning. Generally this shows up as slanted verticals when a camera is panned quickly. That’s because a vertical line will appear to be in one spot when the scan starts at the top of the frame, but will appear in different spots as the camera continues to pan and the shutter moves down and exposes successive lines.

“They can also be a bit noisy. CMOS sensors tend to have a lot of blue noise in the shadows.”

“Huh,” said Harry, taking his bag of chips into the shadow of the garage and looking for any that exhibit blue speckles. “So why use CMOS chips, then?”

“Well, they tend to require less power than CCD chips do. The Sony EX1, for example, would run extremely hot if it used CCD chips instead of CMOS. It deals with noise by putting the analog-to-digital (A/D) converter, which converts the chip’s analog signals to digital, right on the chip. Traditionally the A/D converter is separate from the chip and connected by wires, which can act like antennas and pick up transient signals from inside the camera and make the noise problem worse. By putting the A/D converter right on the chip the noise floor is reduced dramatically. There are solutions developing for these issues, and I’m sure we’ll see huge advancements in the near future.”

“I’m going to beat them all,” said Harry. “All I need to do is find a corn chip with low noise on the floor and I’ll be way ahead of the game.” And so he set out to find a quiet chip, snapping them one at a time while laying in the shade of the garage door.

“By the way,” he said, “from now on I’m changing my name. I’m going to be Harry the Video Toaster. Once I build my camera I’ll be famous, and everyone will shiver and quake at my name! I’m even considering joining the ‘League of Unlikely Media Superheroes.’***”

“Harry,” I said, shaking my head, “you’re twenty years too late. The original Video Toaster has long gone”

Harry looked me straight in the eye: “The Toaster will rise again!” I couldn’t tell if he was serious or if I was the victim of what he calls his “rye humor.”

***Foreshadowing alert. The reader is informed that this will pay off in time.

(2) Comments • Most recent comments by: Joofa, Chris Meyer, • Permalink



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RED results coming soon--stay tuned!

Art Adams | 03/30- 07:28 PM

Hi all- I apologize, but I’ve been swamped with work of one sort or another, and when I tried to sit down and start sorting through the latest RED test footage…

Pix: Zacuto rig; RED tests

Adam Wilt | 03/28- 04:42 PM

A Zacuto support kit for small cameras; Art Adams tests RED build 15 at Chater Camera

Camera porn: some photographs from the past couple of days…

Uh-Oh.

Bruce A Johnson | 03/27- 06:42 PM

As if the DTV transition wasn’t already screwed up enough…

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