(Page 2 of 2 pages for this article  <  1 2)

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Filed under: CamerasTraining

What Wired Didn’t Understand about Depth of Field

Art Adams | 08/16

It’s not about analog vs. digital, it’s frame size vs. focal length

Depth of field doubles if you halve the focal length of the lens.

Depth of field halves if you double the focal length of the lens.

Depth of field doubles by stopping down two f-stops.

Depth of field halves by opening up two f-stops.

If you want do see how much tighter your shot will be if you doubled the focal length of your currrent lens, just look at 1/4 of the frame—between the center cross hair and any corner. That’s the frame if you put on a lens that’s twice as long.

If you reduce the size of the sensor or the film gate by a factor of 2 (say between 35mm film and 16mm film), your depth of field will effectively double because you now need a lens that’s 2x as wide to get the same shot that you had before.

If you set up a shot with a 50mm lens, and then set up the same shot on a 25mm lens by moving the camera toward the subject, you’ll have exactly the same depth of field for both shots.

Anamorphic lenses have half the depth of field of regular lenses because they are really two lenses in one. For example, a 50mm lens will be 50mm in the vertical axis but 25mm in the horizontal axis, resulting in a 2:1 squeeze. And since it’s 25mm in the horizontal axis it’s actually a wide angle lens, but with 50mm depth of field. That’s why pulling focus in 35mm anamorphic is much more difficult than spherical 35mm formats. A close up shot with a spherical 35mm film lens might require an 85mm lens, but the same shot in anamorphic will require a 180mm lens at the same camera-to-subject distance. Any camera assistant will tell you that pulling focus on 180mm lenses can be very exciting indeed.

(Page 2 of 2 pages for this article  <  1 2)

                    Clip to Evernote

 

How to get the “24p” look for your live-switched multicam shoot

Allan Tépper | 02/10

A contracted article, sponsored by Datavideo Corporation.

image

Our friends at Datavideo recently asked me to write an article called How to get the “24p” look for your live-switched multicam shoot. The article covers many factors…

LIGHTING STRATEGIES: Rough Guide to Illuminating a Bounce Card

Art Adams | 01/29

Lighting a bounce card is easy, right? Right… IF you know the basics. Here they are.

Is bounce light really just about aiming a light at a white card and walking away? No. There are a couple of tricks to getting the most out of your bounce source, and I can show them to you fairly quickly using…

LIGHTING STRATEGIES: Exploiting a Single Light Source

Art Adams | 01/28

Sometimes all it takes to make a beautiful picture is placing one light—as long as it’s the proper light source. This still photo shows an example of one style of soft lighting that’s been in use for centuries, and for good reason: it works.

There are few things more elegant than lighting a shot with a single light source. It doesn’t always work, but when it does—it’s magical.

You must be registered to comment. This is an effort to reduce spam. Please REGISTER HERE.

the so-called ‘normal’ lens is the measured diameter of the image…
i.e. on a 35 mm still camera its 24mmx35mm= 50 mm diagonal distance across the image..
on a hasselblad, its 80mm
on a 4x5 view camera, its 150mm…
which is assuming a “pinhole” lens.. ie simple lens…
but a modern lens is multi-element,—
so a 85 mm movie camera lens does not cast a 85mm circle of light… they concentrate the light coming through the lens, down to a smaller circle , to improve the f-stop/T-stop,  which can screw with the whole depth of field thing also…

Posted by billS  on  08/18  at  07:07 AM


Here is a link to a very detailed article on DOF.  The “Background blur” section is my favorite.

“Much of the confusion in DOF discussions arises because people base their judgment on out-of-focus parts of the image. A shallow DOF is not synonymous with a generously blurred background. A shallow DOF implies that there is a shallow region in object space that is rendered acceptably sharp, regardless of whether the background is just not sharp or completely blurred.”

http://www.vanwalree.com/optics/dof.html

Posted by .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)  on  08/21  at  09:09 PM


Sorry to repeat myself from the Red One article, but you are getting a lot of this wrong:

Depth-of-field actually has to do with magnification, subject-to-camera distance and aperture opening.

“The smaller size of the sensor means that lenses must be approximately two times shorter in focal length to capture the same image size as seen on a 35mm sensor.”

BUT - the smaller size of the sensor means that the image must be magnified more to present the same-size projected (or printed) image. This increases the size of the “circles of confusion”, thereby decreasing the depth of field.

In actual fact, the size of the sensor has little (directly) to do with depth-of-field, if equivalent (for the sensor size) focal lengths and apertures are used, and the image is projected to the same size, you’ll get similar depth-of-field.

In practice it’s a little different, because you’d need correspondingly larger apertures on the wider lenses to get the equivalent shallow depth-of field.

You’re confusing focal length and sensor size with magnification. The focal length and sensor size have no direct bearing on depth of field. The magnification, subject distance and aperture do.

Posted by .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)  on  08/28  at  04:06 PM


DOF vs. format size
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field#DOF_vs._format_size
To a first approximation, DOF is inversely proportional to format size. More precisely, if photographs with the same final-image size are taken in two different camera formats at the same subject distance with the same field of view and f-number, the DOF is, to a first approximation, inversely proportional to the format size. Strictly speaking, this is true only when the subject distance is large in comparison with the focal length and small in comparison with the hyperfocal distance, for both formats, but it nonetheless is generally useful for comparing results obtained from different formats.
To maintain the same field of view, the lens focal lengths must be in proportion to the format sizes. Assuming, for purposes of comparison, that the 4×5 format is four times the size of 35 mm format, if a 4×5 camera used a 300 mm lens, a 35 mm camera would need a 75 mm lens for the same field of view. For the same f-number, the image made with the 35 mm camera would have four times the DOF of the image made with the 4×5 camera.

Posted by billS  on  08/28  at  06:05 PM


You use wikipedia as a source? Wow. This wouldn’t be the first time Wikipedia was wrong.

The Wikipedia article doesn’t take into account the magnification of the negative or sensor for viewing, either by projection, or printing.

You know what happens when you enlarge something? It gets softer. So, the smaller format needs more enlargement to reach the final viewing size.

In reality, images are magnified to the same viewing size, regardless of the source. So, if your target is an 8x10 print, the 35mm frame needs more enlargement than a medium or large-format frame.

This theory is only true if you are looking at the unmagnified negative or slide - which doesn’t happen in reality.

Another thing that people seem to be missing, is that there’s no such thing as “sharp”. There’s only varying sizes of “circles of confusion”. Enlargement affects the size of these circles. Even your “in-focus” parts of the picture won’t look sharp if you enlarge them enough.

Posted by .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)  on  08/28  at  08:28 PM


Name:

Email:

Location:

URL:

Smileys

Remember my personal information

Notify me of follow-up comments?

Submit the word you see below:











How to get the “24p” look for your live-switched multicam shoot

Allan Tépper | 02/10

A contracted article, sponsored by Datavideo Corporation.

image

Our friends at Datavideo recently asked me to write an article called How to get the “24p” look for your live-switched multicam shoot. The article covers many factors…

LIGHTING STRATEGIES: Rough Guide to Illuminating a Bounce Card

Art Adams | 01/29

Lighting a bounce card is easy, right? Right… IF you know the basics. Here they are.

Is bounce light really just about aiming a light at a white card and walking away? No. There are a couple of tricks to getting the most out of your bounce source, and I can show them to you fairly quickly using…

LIGHTING STRATEGIES: Exploiting a Single Light Source

Art Adams | 01/28

Sometimes all it takes to make a beautiful picture is placing one light—as long as it’s the proper light source. This still photo shows an example of one style of soft lighting that’s been in use for centuries, and for good reason: it works.

There are few things more elegant than lighting a shot with a single light source. It doesn’t always work, but when it does—it’s magical.

LIGHTING STRATEGIES: Placing the Fill Light for Faces

Art Adams | 01/17

Placing a fill light properly is possibly more important than placing a key light… and I can prove it!

In this article I wrote about classical key light…

To be considered for listing, contact pr (at) provideocoalition (dot) com


Copyright © 2011, HD Expo, LLC a division of Diversified Business Communications. DBA Createasphere

All rights reserved. HD EXPO, High Def EXPO, Createasphere, E-Tech, Entertainment Technology Exposition, 3D Production Workshop, VariCamp, P2 Camp, ColorCamp 101, and Lighting, Filters & Gels for HD are all trademarks of HD Expo, LLC.

Terms of Use  |  Privacy Policy

Check PageRank