Since the iPad moved to USB-C, it’s become possible to connect many more external devices, opening up new possibilities. Because an iPad is thinner and lighter than a regular computer, it can sneak into bags that wouldn’t fit a laptop, and because the battery lasts for a long time, it doesn’t necessarily need to plug into power.

Video professionals have found many ways to make use of iPads already, including taking notes, referring to scripts, and driving teleprompters, but let’s focus here on how HDMI input can make a difference. Note that in 2023 we took a look at Video Assist, an early app which enabled this, but here, we’ll look at a few different apps and a few different ways to make use of them.

Hardware requirements

For this to make sense, you’ll need an iPad that supports USB-C — one of these:

• iPad Pro (M4) — check out Scott’s review
• iPad Pro 11-inch (1st, 2nd, 3rd, or 4th generation)
• iPad Pro 12.9-inch (3rd, 4th, 5th, or 6th generation)
• iPad Air (M2)
• iPad Air (4th or 5th generation)
• iPad mini (6th generation)

I’ll be working with an iPad Pro 11” with M1, the 3rd generation, and note that the displays on all these iPads vary quite a bit. All the most recent M4-based models have the OLED-based HDR-ready Ultra Retina XDR Display, and the two previous generations of the 12.9” iPad Pro also had an OLED display. Other iPads don’t, so blacks won’t be as black, but it’s unlikely to be a major concern for most of us; these are all good displays.

As well as an iPad, you’ll need a USB-HDMI dongle-box-converter-device. I’m using an Elgato HD 60 S+, but other devices like the Elgato Cam Link or many no-name options will work too. My device can receive 4K @ 60fps, but it does downconvert that signal to 1080p for display, and note that not all devices offer the same encoding quality or reliability. For what it’s worth, I’ve been using this device for delivering multiple-hour-long live camera feeds at events for years now, and it’s always been reliable for me, but it’s definitely not the cheapest option.

In terms of apps, you have many choices, including these and more:

• Orion, free, with in-app purchase to adjust screen settings like contrast. Very cute retro UI.
• CamX, free, no in-app purchases. Simple, clean UI around the feed, though this can be hidden. Image can be adjusted (brightness, contrast, saturation, zoom, position) and the image can also be mirrored or rotated. Features a videography mode that overlays the rule of thirds grid and a histogram. Also allows recording and screenshots.
• Elgato Capture, free, no in-app purchases, for Elgato devices. Clean, simple UI, allows recording.
• MoniCon, free, no in-app purchases. Some controls over the image (brightness, contrast, saturation, vibrance) along with Super Resolution upscaling and video range correction.
• Dongled, free, no in-app purchases. Open source, no options, works fine.
• HDMI, free, no in-app purchases. No options, but works fine.
• Video Assist, US$99. Many options, including recording, video transformations, and recognition of ARRI and RED interfaces.

While Video Assist was an early mover, followed soon after by the free Orion, there’s obviously a lot more competition now, and many free options do include bells and whistles. Download CamX and Orion to start, see if they do what you need, try some other options if you wish, and consider the extra features of Video Assist if you need. Its integration with RED or ARRI overlays might be perfect for some advanced users, but others may not want to invest US$99.

With an app or a few installed, let’s hook everything together and get testing.

iPad as a field monitor

This is the obvious one. Hook your camera’s HDMI output into the USB-HDMI device, plug that into your iPad, and launch Orion (or another app of your choice). Lag should be minimal, though because the HDMI out in many cameras can be slightly delayed, if you’re not used to pulling focus on a monitor, don’t be surprised if you notice a delay of a few frames.

While most of us will hook up a dedicated camera, it’s possible to output HDMI from a modern iPhone these days. If you want, you can connected an HDMI output dongle from an iPhone to an HDMI input dongle on an iPad. Note that if you’re planning doing something like this, consider an app like CamX which gives you control over rotation and zooming.

Compared to most field monitors, an iPad will be thinner, larger, and may have more resolution, and if you’ve always relied on a camera’s built-in screen, the bigger display is a joy to use. While I’ve used a dedicated external monitor on extended shoots for many years, today, I probably wouldn’t buy another. The display on an iPad is clearer, more accurate and more consistent, and if you already own one, cost isn’t a factor.

Useful as this is, it gets better.

Stream live video into an Apple Vision Pro or to any TV

Once you’ve got an iPad displaying full-screen video from any camera, you can simply use the built-in AirPlay screen sharing feature to send this iPad’s screen, live, to any Mac, any Apple TV (and the regular TV it’s connected to) or any Apple Vision Pro running the latest visionOS 2. This is all wireless and free, with no extra subscriptions or hardware. (Just remember — if all this gear is close together for testing purposes, turn the sound on the iPad down to avoid audio feedback.)

Of course, on a full production set you’d probably use a dedicated box like a Teradex, but if you want to make a client on a smaller job feel included from a different room, or you want to use your Apple Vision Pro while you monitor shots, this is an easy way to test the waters. If you want to share a multicam feed, that’s going to be a little harder, but you can view the output from an ATEM switcher if you want to.

Production could get interesting, then. What about post?

iPad as an extra computer display

Note: We wrote a whole article about this recently.
While Apple’s Sidecar feature already lets you use an iPad as an extended or mirrored display, there are some good reasons why you might want to use an HDMI-enabled iPad instead. One is that you might be editing on a PC rather than a Mac, and an extra monitor can be just what you need on a trip away from home.

Another reason is that in Final Cut Pro, if you want to use the A/V Output support to drive a monitor directly, that monitor has to be connected by a cable, and using a standard resolution. Normally, that excludes an iPad using Sidecar, but an iPad with an HDMI interface connected works just like a regular external HDMI monitor does.

On my Mac, I’m able to select from a huge range of regular video resolutions at 60Hz, and I can use it for A/V Output without any problems. This gives me a third screen for just the video in FCP, letting me focus on the Scopes on my main monitor with the Browser taking over my second screen. There was no visible lag, so there’s no problem listening to audio from my laptop while viewing the image on the iPad. Color was very close too — it’s a solid solution. A tip: if you want to use this feature regularly, assign a shortcut to “Toggle A/V Output on/off” in the Command Editor, and save a new workspace to remember your setup.

I also tested this in Premiere Pro, and it worked fine. Though there are no preset workspaces for two- or three-screen use, you can drag any panel to a separate screen, then save a new workspace. Spread everything out if you like.

iPad as a display for a games console?

Although it’s hardly a professional context, if your family’s main TV is being monopolized to watch a musical or sports production that you have no interest in, you might want to escape to a video game. If your shed, tent or basement retreat of choice doesn’t have a suitable TV, take your iPad and HDMI dongle with you. It’ll work fine.

A small USB hub — handy for video tasks on iPad and iPhone

Power can eventually become an issue, because the USB interface does chew through an iPad’s battery, but that doesn’t mean you’ll be tethered to a wall. A small USB hub, like  one from SmallRig that I recently picked up for my iPhone, solves the problem neatly. It’s all USB-C, turning one input port into four more: one 10Gbps connection for the HDMI interface, one PD port to connect to a wall charger or large power bank, and two slower USB 2.0 ports for connecting slower devices.

This hub is also ideal for anyone who wants to use an iPhone to record to an SSD while also using USB-C audio and external power, and it even slides into a cold shoe or clips onto a cable. Not many USB hubs include both fast data and USB-PD power, so read the specs carefully if you’re looking for one.

It all works really well, and if you haven’t discovered the joy of large USB-PD power banks yet, you’re missing out. I’m finally able to take a single box and a single type of cable to power everything for hours: my laptop, phone, dedicated camera and more.

Conclusion

Opening up the iPad and iPhone with USB-C has had real-world benefits for many video professionals. We’re able to share SSDs and other devices with our regular computers, and because the ecosystem is already built, we get other features like screen sharing and remote screen control for free.

So, if you’ve got a USB-HDMI interface and an iPad already, grab a free app and test out some new workflows. At the very least, you’ll have a new option for a field monitor, or a new screen to play games on, but if you’ve got a Vision Pro, you can now wirelessly integrate it with any camera. We live in interesting times.